Tuesday - Day 29

After a quiet night on Romajech on this section of the towpath, we had coffee with David and Hazel on board and then waved goodbye as we set off on the last stage of the journey.

A peaceful wending of our ways through the rest of Loughborough and on towards Kegworth although the route was not always clearly indicated or, indeed, visible until the last minute. Saw a brief flash of kingfisher as it flew up from a dive, but Mike missed it.

Locks not too bad but not looking forward to Kegworth Deep Lock. As we arrived at the lock, a young couple walked up and offered to help. They had a young baby who was being carried in a sling by her father. They were very sweet and the father was climbing over the locks very surefootedly with his daughter, Virginia Rose. He told us he was into free running and had good balance but my heart was in my mouth watching him.

Chatted while the lock filled and we thanked them for all their help. It looked like rain and they were walking back to Kegworth and were tired and thirsty, so we offered them drinks and a lift, which they accepted with delight. They loved the boat and chattered all the way. Let them off at Kegworth Shallow Lock with much waving and many smiles. A lovely encounter.

On to the River Trent and up to Sawley Lock, which is not the easiest to access from the river side. Entered the Marina with grace and polish due to the ineffable skills of the helmsman and were safe in our berth by 4.30pm. The end of a brilliant adventure with wonderful friends and company all the way.
Feeling a little sad but also starting to plan our next one. Cannot wait! Now to get through all that washing and cleaning.

Monday - Day 28

Romajech left Pillings Lock Marina in sunshine and with no regrets. Said a fond farewell to Blue Adeline - it doesn't seem like four weeks since we set off on our Intrepid Adventures.

Nosed out on to what looked like an empty canal and promptly had two boats appear at speed from the left. Held back until all was clear and ewe were off to Loughborough to meet up with family. Romajech pottered gently through the Leicester Navigation and on to the Grand Union at Loughborough - a mix of rural and industrial landscape but no locks! Just as well with Mike's back problems. 

Moored opposite my brother and sister-in-law's house on the canal and waved to them as they were in their garden. Felt like royalty again! Spent a happy family day, ending with wine and coffee back on Romajech. Watched two swans and their three cygnets floating along the canal in the moonlight.

Sunday - Day 27

The joys of hoovering, using a washing machine and an electric kettle are not to be underestimated when you have been without such things for a week... Carpets now looking spruce!

Delicious lunch with Pete and Jan in Loughborough at the Siam Cafe. Lovely time, with toasts to the Intrepid Adventurers - or the doddering narrowboaters depending on your interpretation of the last four weeks. 

Discovered that our validated car parking ticket was not valid as we had gone over the allocated two hours in the car park. Held up a whole line of traffic trying to get out of Tesco's car park for at least five minutes, (if that is not intrepid I don't know what is!), paid our fees with help from an attendant and went on our way. 

Really going to miss Blue Adeline and her crew. We never did have our pemmican stew but perhaps we shall indulge in one on our next adventurous boaty trip.

Blue Adeline's journey finishes here at Pillings Lock Marina, at least temporarily, since she's having her cabin and hull painted by Debbie and the team at Plain Sailing.  Lots to do, clearing out the boat and making sure things inside are secure for the trailer out of the water.

We all - Denis, Pete and Jan - had a wonderful time on this our first big narrowboat trip.  Lots of laughs, fabulous scenery and wildlife moments, friendly people, surreal experiences and delicious eats.  Interesting challenges: wind, current, tunnels, bow-to-bows under bridges and creaking lock machinery.   Thanks to our dear (and definitely intrepid) companions Jane and Mike on Romajech.  See you back at Sawley and here's to the next time!

Saturday - Day 26

Romajech set off after a rainy night - thanks to Pete and Jan for loosening our mooring ropes in the rain and darkness (as we were asleep) in case the river level went up. The sky was lifting and brightening as we moved off, Romajech sporting a jazzy orange and white umbrella to protect the helmsman in case of a sudden downpour. The whiff of the nearby sewage works wrapped itself around our nostrils to remind us of the romance of boating.

The first locks were not as heavy as the last few days' locks have been. The River Wreake section is tranquil and rather pretty, with a spectacular view of the weir at Cossington Lock from the lock side. Passed another sewage works (!) on the River Soar as we approached Sileby, which was very busy with boats leaving Sileby Boatyard. Gave a mental wave to John (who lives on the Marina there) and Kate (who lives at Sileby).  They both work at Sawley Brokerage and Chandlery but we didn't see either of them. Then through more winding waterway - the river wants to tell the boat where to go in a gently pushy sort of way - past lush vegetation and scenery. Not always possible to see beyond the banks.

Saw some very lovely and expensive properties running down to the river banks as we boated to Mountsorrel lock, where we helped a family in a day hire cruiser with the lock process - they had only done one other lock and that was Barrow Deep!

Leaving Mountsorrel

Looking forward to seeing Grace, Gareth and Jordan who are popping down to see us at Pillings Marina for a late lunch.  Also looking forward to some electrical hookups too to get appliances charged and washing machines working. Such excitement over a plug - be still our beating hearts.

At Barrow on Soar Blue Adeline nearly collided with a large trip boat filled with OAPs which roared round a blind corner in the middle of the river with no advance warning. Pete did an excellent emergency stop and all the OAPs waved happily at him, blissfully unaware of the narrowly averted maritime disaster - and Pete still says this is not Intrepid Adventuring!

Barrow Deep had a short queue, with boats locking up and down. A small day trip boat (called Fumble) filled with about twelve teenagers went into the lock - and then waited for us to do the lock for them! They didn't seem to have a windlass between them but they did have plenty of wine and beer. We obliged and saw them on their way.

Barrow Deep Lock

Finally got Romajech and Blue Adeline through, feeling our muscles growing by the second as both gates and paddles were heavy work. On to the pretty meadows leading to Pillings Lock Marina, where we saw the occupants of Fumble having a barbecue and another drink or three beside the flood lock.
Into Pillings Marina, where we finally located the visitor moorings and found the side wind troublesome. Finally got on to the finger jetty from the front of the boat and found it rolled from side to side as well as bouncing up and down. Rather disconcerting. 

Visited the marina office, where the greeting was blank and not very fulsome. We were told both boats would have to move and then told we could all stay where we were, after the young manager inspected our placements, sorted out electrical hookups and gave us codes for the facilities. The drier tokens are £3.10p each - horrendous! Sawley's are 50p!

Paperwork done, we set off for the bar and met Grace, Gareth and Jordan who had just arrived! Perfect timing. Relaxing afternoon in the sun on the veranda of the bar with beer, wine and grub. Much laughter and a tinge of sadness for the ending of our adventure.

A final nightcap or two with Jan and Pete on board Romajech signalled the end of the last day's boating trip together.

Friday - Day 25

Off at 7.45 for Leicester. A winding, meandering trip, negotiating fallen willows across the canal and assorted objects in the canal: a safe, a freezer, a handbag, footballs and a chair. Pete saw two jays. First two locks weren't too bad but some challenges with the current from weirs and the swirling wind. Got to the huge unprotected weir at Freeman's Meadow Lock and found it had a partial boom newly placed across some of it. It is beside Leicester City Football Club. Jan saw a moorhen surf joyously over the top of the weir and down the falling water.

As we were about to leave the lock mooring, a young woman boating solo approached, so Jan, Mike and Pete helped her through the lock, which was deep and heavy. She was going to London, picking up a friend in Wigston. Very intrepid.

On to the River Soar section, wide and lovely, then through the city bridges, feeling regal and waving to all who looked down on us... Two little girls and their mums were really excited to see the boats and waved madly, especially when Mike sounded the horn.

Huge gatherings of swans in places. Castle Gardens visitor moorings were rather small and a little shabby and we were glad we hadn't wanted to stay there. On to a more winding part of the canal, with tight twisty corners right on weirs. Saw a heron up close and personal - he had no intention of moving and stood staring at us as we passed.

In the central part of Leicester were more derelict looking buildings and graffiti, some of which was quite decorative.

One ancient lock near Frog Island had cobbles leading through a dark bridge as we exited the lock - like being back in time! Some very black, smelly and oily parts of the canal, with Romajech picking up something round the prop but, when we stopped to check it, we found it had been dislodged, so we could carry on. Pete and Mike bravely plunged their arms into the weed hatch to diagnose the problem. Heroes both!

The River Soar (we saw one city pub called Soar Point) then runs clear and looks fresh and healthy, although incredibly twisting and covered on both sides with lush growth as we left the city. We saw a party of young children in long plastic canoes being rocked quite violently by older teenagers. They were wearing life jackets and were screaming but seemingly with joy and all waved and shouted as we went past them. 

Lunch at the White Horse at Birstall, where sitting down proved how knackered we were. Great grub - thoroughly recommended! Despite everyone just wanting to sleep, we pressed on through Thurmaston Lock (a real challenge as it's on a corner and the gusting wind took the boats like sails and tried to push them over to the other side of the river). Met the guys on nb Bullrush again (we'd first met them at Kilby and then at King's Lock) who sent us on our way by offering to close the gates behind us so we didn't have to stop. Bless them!

Found the Hope and Anchor moorings, oddly just beyond the Hope and Anchor pub. Snooze time was decreed, although the boys had a beer/brandy and a natter before heading off. 

Heavy rain and dark clouds set in at about 6.30pm. We definitely had the best of the day for our travelling. Off to Pillings Lock Marina tomorrow for some electricity with plugs on!

Thursday - Day 24

Up and readying boats for the next stage of the trip, then a communal breakfast sharing bacon, black pudding, baked beans,sausages and real coffee on the picnic table just beside our boats. Stoked up for the trials of the next heavy locks, we sallied forth but soon found that some paddles and gates were just impossible for one woman to move. Help from the boys required. Several of the lock gates had no gate paddles at all. Lots of leaks too...had a stop for lunch after 6 locks as we were all craving carbs. Pork pies, crisps, sandwiches and cake went down very well. We set off again, bulging slightly at the seams, and found we only had 3, not 5, locks left to do. Amazingly cheering news! Both Jan and I had miscounted somehow. A Harry Potter magical moment?

The map in the Nicholson guide suggests this stretch of the waterway is built up, but the overwhelming impression is rural and tranquil.  Only after Aylestone Meadows does the city start to become visible.

We made it through to King's Lock, recommended by nb Bullrush for a safe mooring before Leicester and moored in a quiet spot just before bridge 105, interrupted only by cyclists, joggers, dogs and walkers. A passing local historian (this seems to happen often to us) told us the history of the medieval Pack Horse Bridge with its eight buttressed stone arches over the river Soar. 

Prince Rupert of the Rhine marched his men and cavalry over it when supporting King Charles during the Civil War and it took a whole day for them all to cross.  We also heard the background of the defunct Grand Central. Railway, which is now a cycle track and well maintained by the local council. We encountered a toad who paid Romajech a visit, inspected us and found us a little lacking so then pottered off into the hedge across the towpath. If we see a mole on this trip, we shall have encountered the three main characters from 'Wind in the Willows'.

Walked the short distance to the Black Horse pub, a friendly and slightly eccentric local, for an evening meal. Lovely hand battered fish for three of us and Pete had a pie which had very little filling with surrounding rock hard pastry. Interesting contrast! Long discussion about whether narrow boating can be considered truly intrepid. Friendly staff and a neighbourhood cat who sat beside us while we ate.

On our way back we explored the Pack Horse bridge again. We saw another toad under the railway bridge on our way back to the boats and wondered if it were the same one who had visited earlier and had come to see what we were up to.

Wednesday - Day 23

Romajech crew need a laundrette as haven't washed any clothes since Brinklow Marina. We can't run the generator when other people are moored so close to us, so set off in a taxi with huge bags of washing, and had the laundrette experience in South Wigston. Everything is chained and padlocked. Were entertained by three generations of a travelling family who used the 'f' word before every second word when they spoke. The youngest was eating sherbet which he spilled all over himself once and then again as he tried to dust off what he had already tipped out. He was happy though.

Back to the boat to find Blue Adeline moored behind Romajech, locked up and uninhabited. Jan and Denis had arrived earlier than we thought. Soon afterwards, Jan returned from seeing off Denis and we caught up on the canal tales experienced by both boats so far.

Off to Tesco's (a huge one!) with Jan in the afternoon - contents of baskets seemed to be mainly alcohol related. Strangely... Does Pete's imminent arrival have anything to do with this?

We ate in the Navigation again in the evening, Pete arrived but only wanted pud. Not as impressed this time, food average and stodgy and waitress ( not yesterday's) rather surly.  Post prawn dial brandy sent us off to the land of Nod very happy!

The Navigation, Kilby Bridge

Blue Adeline started off early morning from Wystowe to do the 7 locks to Kilby Bridge, where Denis was to leave for work and Pete to rejoin.  It was quiet and almost all the locks were with us, so we were in good time for a drink at the Navigation before Denis's taxi arrived.  The driver turned out to be friendly and informative, active in the muslim and interfaith communities in Leicester and a guide to the city - we're looking forward to returning for a tour with him.  

Tuesday - Day 22

Romajech faced the Seven Locks challenge and finally won, but it was hard work. The locks on this stretch of the Leicester bit of the Grand Union are heavy and unwieldy, leaking, refusing to open and close (both gates and paddles) and also running low on water in some of the pounds. Graffiti on the lock beams adds to the sense of impending 'civilisation'.

We hoped to take it gently but brute force turned out to be the order of the day. One of the lock gates needed both of us to move it at all. Met a couple travelling the other way and they said to ignore all the horror stories about Leicester. They had set off at 6.30am yesterday and had no trouble at all; just that Leicester was a city and it was hard work. They recommended the moorings at Kilby Bridge and said that it where they ended up after their day's boating. They also said to aim for Thurmaston to moor in after getting through Leicester.

We took their advice and we were glad to be able to fill up with water and empty the rubbish etc. at quiet moorings at Kilby Bridge alongside a country park. Rewarded ourselves with a lunch at 'The Navigation' waterside pub. Good meal with friendly and helpful waitress who told us where to go for shopping, cash machine and taxi etc. Apparently there is a Sainsbury's in Wigston. Excited! Off there in a while to reconnoitre.

We walked up to Sainsbury's in 45 minutes - it was small but fine. Got a taxi back and were impressed. Queen's Taxis 0116 2701700 - very efficient, confirmed everything with texts and also asked for feedback.

I forgot to mention in yesterday's blog that we saw a terrapin about the size of a side plate sunning itself on a tree stump on the edge of the canal. An alien creature - striped in green, brown, lemon and cream motley. Also saw a huge one in a park near Rothley a few weeks ago which was the size of a large dinner plate. Do they breed in this country?

In Blue Adeline, we set off at 9am and joined the queue of two boats waiting to go down Foxton Locks.  Since the locks are single and one-way, several boats come up and down but only in one direction at once.   After an hour, we got the go ahead from the voluntary lock-keeper, who was excellent - reassuring and informative.  

Each lock has a pound and the lock discharges water into the pound below and receives water from the pound above - the order is important.  The paddle order is therefore "red before white - and you're all right" not "white before red - you're dead!".  

Blue Adeline about to descend

Leaky top gates at Foxton

By the second staircase, we were in the swing and an hour after starting our descent were in the basin at the bottom - and shortly afterwards in the tiny and charming Bridge 61 pub nearby. Saddington Tunnel (880 yards) was a few miles further on and we decided to find a mooring for the night after that.

Beautiful scenery continued and we had the waterway to ourselves for many hours, apart from a few moored boats.  At Debdale Marina, we filled up with water and in the office met Jake and his recently acquired steampunk top hat, which he graciously modelled.  A boating couple suggested Wystowe as a good spot for the night.

The tunnel and five locks later we passed under bridge 77 and a lovely vista unfolded on the left; fields, trees and a single building of pale stone.  This is the church of Wystowe, a medieval village now abandoned.  

We moored up by some convenient pilings in view of the church and a stunning sunset.