Tuesday - Day 29

After a quiet night on Romajech on this section of the towpath, we had coffee with David and Hazel on board and then waved goodbye as we set off on the last stage of the journey.

A peaceful wending of our ways through the rest of Loughborough and on towards Kegworth although the route was not always clearly indicated or, indeed, visible until the last minute. Saw a brief flash of kingfisher as it flew up from a dive, but Mike missed it.

Locks not too bad but not looking forward to Kegworth Deep Lock. As we arrived at the lock, a young couple walked up and offered to help. They had a young baby who was being carried in a sling by her father. They were very sweet and the father was climbing over the locks very surefootedly with his daughter, Virginia Rose. He told us he was into free running and had good balance but my heart was in my mouth watching him.

Chatted while the lock filled and we thanked them for all their help. It looked like rain and they were walking back to Kegworth and were tired and thirsty, so we offered them drinks and a lift, which they accepted with delight. They loved the boat and chattered all the way. Let them off at Kegworth Shallow Lock with much waving and many smiles. A lovely encounter.

On to the River Trent and up to Sawley Lock, which is not the easiest to access from the river side. Entered the Marina with grace and polish due to the ineffable skills of the helmsman and were safe in our berth by 4.30pm. The end of a brilliant adventure with wonderful friends and company all the way.
Feeling a little sad but also starting to plan our next one. Cannot wait! Now to get through all that washing and cleaning.

Monday - Day 28

Romajech left Pillings Lock Marina in sunshine and with no regrets. Said a fond farewell to Blue Adeline - it doesn't seem like four weeks since we set off on our Intrepid Adventures.

Nosed out on to what looked like an empty canal and promptly had two boats appear at speed from the left. Held back until all was clear and ewe were off to Loughborough to meet up with family. Romajech pottered gently through the Leicester Navigation and on to the Grand Union at Loughborough - a mix of rural and industrial landscape but no locks! Just as well with Mike's back problems. 

Moored opposite my brother and sister-in-law's house on the canal and waved to them as they were in their garden. Felt like royalty again! Spent a happy family day, ending with wine and coffee back on Romajech. Watched two swans and their three cygnets floating along the canal in the moonlight.

Sunday - Day 27

The joys of hoovering, using a washing machine and an electric kettle are not to be underestimated when you have been without such things for a week... Carpets now looking spruce!

Delicious lunch with Pete and Jan in Loughborough at the Siam Cafe. Lovely time, with toasts to the Intrepid Adventurers - or the doddering narrowboaters depending on your interpretation of the last four weeks. 

Discovered that our validated car parking ticket was not valid as we had gone over the allocated two hours in the car park. Held up a whole line of traffic trying to get out of Tesco's car park for at least five minutes, (if that is not intrepid I don't know what is!), paid our fees with help from an attendant and went on our way. 

Really going to miss Blue Adeline and her crew. We never did have our pemmican stew but perhaps we shall indulge in one on our next adventurous boaty trip.

Blue Adeline's journey finishes here at Pillings Lock Marina, at least temporarily, since she's having her cabin and hull painted by Debbie and the team at Plain Sailing.  Lots to do, clearing out the boat and making sure things inside are secure for the trailer out of the water.

We all - Denis, Pete and Jan - had a wonderful time on this our first big narrowboat trip.  Lots of laughs, fabulous scenery and wildlife moments, friendly people, surreal experiences and delicious eats.  Interesting challenges: wind, current, tunnels, bow-to-bows under bridges and creaking lock machinery.   Thanks to our dear (and definitely intrepid) companions Jane and Mike on Romajech.  See you back at Sawley and here's to the next time!

Saturday - Day 26

Romajech set off after a rainy night - thanks to Pete and Jan for loosening our mooring ropes in the rain and darkness (as we were asleep) in case the river level went up. The sky was lifting and brightening as we moved off, Romajech sporting a jazzy orange and white umbrella to protect the helmsman in case of a sudden downpour. The whiff of the nearby sewage works wrapped itself around our nostrils to remind us of the romance of boating.

The first locks were not as heavy as the last few days' locks have been. The River Wreake section is tranquil and rather pretty, with a spectacular view of the weir at Cossington Lock from the lock side. Passed another sewage works (!) on the River Soar as we approached Sileby, which was very busy with boats leaving Sileby Boatyard. Gave a mental wave to John (who lives on the Marina there) and Kate (who lives at Sileby).  They both work at Sawley Brokerage and Chandlery but we didn't see either of them. Then through more winding waterway - the river wants to tell the boat where to go in a gently pushy sort of way - past lush vegetation and scenery. Not always possible to see beyond the banks.

Saw some very lovely and expensive properties running down to the river banks as we boated to Mountsorrel lock, where we helped a family in a day hire cruiser with the lock process - they had only done one other lock and that was Barrow Deep!

Leaving Mountsorrel

Looking forward to seeing Grace, Gareth and Jordan who are popping down to see us at Pillings Marina for a late lunch.  Also looking forward to some electrical hookups too to get appliances charged and washing machines working. Such excitement over a plug - be still our beating hearts.

At Barrow on Soar Blue Adeline nearly collided with a large trip boat filled with OAPs which roared round a blind corner in the middle of the river with no advance warning. Pete did an excellent emergency stop and all the OAPs waved happily at him, blissfully unaware of the narrowly averted maritime disaster - and Pete still says this is not Intrepid Adventuring!

Barrow Deep had a short queue, with boats locking up and down. A small day trip boat (called Fumble) filled with about twelve teenagers went into the lock - and then waited for us to do the lock for them! They didn't seem to have a windlass between them but they did have plenty of wine and beer. We obliged and saw them on their way.

Barrow Deep Lock

Finally got Romajech and Blue Adeline through, feeling our muscles growing by the second as both gates and paddles were heavy work. On to the pretty meadows leading to Pillings Lock Marina, where we saw the occupants of Fumble having a barbecue and another drink or three beside the flood lock.
Into Pillings Marina, where we finally located the visitor moorings and found the side wind troublesome. Finally got on to the finger jetty from the front of the boat and found it rolled from side to side as well as bouncing up and down. Rather disconcerting. 

Visited the marina office, where the greeting was blank and not very fulsome. We were told both boats would have to move and then told we could all stay where we were, after the young manager inspected our placements, sorted out electrical hookups and gave us codes for the facilities. The drier tokens are £3.10p each - horrendous! Sawley's are 50p!

Paperwork done, we set off for the bar and met Grace, Gareth and Jordan who had just arrived! Perfect timing. Relaxing afternoon in the sun on the veranda of the bar with beer, wine and grub. Much laughter and a tinge of sadness for the ending of our adventure.

A final nightcap or two with Jan and Pete on board Romajech signalled the end of the last day's boating trip together.

Friday - Day 25

Off at 7.45 for Leicester. A winding, meandering trip, negotiating fallen willows across the canal and assorted objects in the canal: a safe, a freezer, a handbag, footballs and a chair. Pete saw two jays. First two locks weren't too bad but some challenges with the current from weirs and the swirling wind. Got to the huge unprotected weir at Freeman's Meadow Lock and found it had a partial boom newly placed across some of it. It is beside Leicester City Football Club. Jan saw a moorhen surf joyously over the top of the weir and down the falling water.

As we were about to leave the lock mooring, a young woman boating solo approached, so Jan, Mike and Pete helped her through the lock, which was deep and heavy. She was going to London, picking up a friend in Wigston. Very intrepid.

On to the River Soar section, wide and lovely, then through the city bridges, feeling regal and waving to all who looked down on us... Two little girls and their mums were really excited to see the boats and waved madly, especially when Mike sounded the horn.

Huge gatherings of swans in places. Castle Gardens visitor moorings were rather small and a little shabby and we were glad we hadn't wanted to stay there. On to a more winding part of the canal, with tight twisty corners right on weirs. Saw a heron up close and personal - he had no intention of moving and stood staring at us as we passed.

In the central part of Leicester were more derelict looking buildings and graffiti, some of which was quite decorative.

One ancient lock near Frog Island had cobbles leading through a dark bridge as we exited the lock - like being back in time! Some very black, smelly and oily parts of the canal, with Romajech picking up something round the prop but, when we stopped to check it, we found it had been dislodged, so we could carry on. Pete and Mike bravely plunged their arms into the weed hatch to diagnose the problem. Heroes both!

The River Soar (we saw one city pub called Soar Point) then runs clear and looks fresh and healthy, although incredibly twisting and covered on both sides with lush growth as we left the city. We saw a party of young children in long plastic canoes being rocked quite violently by older teenagers. They were wearing life jackets and were screaming but seemingly with joy and all waved and shouted as we went past them. 

Lunch at the White Horse at Birstall, where sitting down proved how knackered we were. Great grub - thoroughly recommended! Despite everyone just wanting to sleep, we pressed on through Thurmaston Lock (a real challenge as it's on a corner and the gusting wind took the boats like sails and tried to push them over to the other side of the river). Met the guys on nb Bullrush again (we'd first met them at Kilby and then at King's Lock) who sent us on our way by offering to close the gates behind us so we didn't have to stop. Bless them!

Found the Hope and Anchor moorings, oddly just beyond the Hope and Anchor pub. Snooze time was decreed, although the boys had a beer/brandy and a natter before heading off. 

Heavy rain and dark clouds set in at about 6.30pm. We definitely had the best of the day for our travelling. Off to Pillings Lock Marina tomorrow for some electricity with plugs on!

Thursday - Day 24

Up and readying boats for the next stage of the trip, then a communal breakfast sharing bacon, black pudding, baked beans,sausages and real coffee on the picnic table just beside our boats. Stoked up for the trials of the next heavy locks, we sallied forth but soon found that some paddles and gates were just impossible for one woman to move. Help from the boys required. Several of the lock gates had no gate paddles at all. Lots of leaks too...had a stop for lunch after 6 locks as we were all craving carbs. Pork pies, crisps, sandwiches and cake went down very well. We set off again, bulging slightly at the seams, and found we only had 3, not 5, locks left to do. Amazingly cheering news! Both Jan and I had miscounted somehow. A Harry Potter magical moment?

The map in the Nicholson guide suggests this stretch of the waterway is built up, but the overwhelming impression is rural and tranquil.  Only after Aylestone Meadows does the city start to become visible.

We made it through to King's Lock, recommended by nb Bullrush for a safe mooring before Leicester and moored in a quiet spot just before bridge 105, interrupted only by cyclists, joggers, dogs and walkers. A passing local historian (this seems to happen often to us) told us the history of the medieval Pack Horse Bridge with its eight buttressed stone arches over the river Soar. 

Prince Rupert of the Rhine marched his men and cavalry over it when supporting King Charles during the Civil War and it took a whole day for them all to cross.  We also heard the background of the defunct Grand Central. Railway, which is now a cycle track and well maintained by the local council. We encountered a toad who paid Romajech a visit, inspected us and found us a little lacking so then pottered off into the hedge across the towpath. If we see a mole on this trip, we shall have encountered the three main characters from 'Wind in the Willows'.

Walked the short distance to the Black Horse pub, a friendly and slightly eccentric local, for an evening meal. Lovely hand battered fish for three of us and Pete had a pie which had very little filling with surrounding rock hard pastry. Interesting contrast! Long discussion about whether narrow boating can be considered truly intrepid. Friendly staff and a neighbourhood cat who sat beside us while we ate.

On our way back we explored the Pack Horse bridge again. We saw another toad under the railway bridge on our way back to the boats and wondered if it were the same one who had visited earlier and had come to see what we were up to.

Wednesday - Day 23

Romajech crew need a laundrette as haven't washed any clothes since Brinklow Marina. We can't run the generator when other people are moored so close to us, so set off in a taxi with huge bags of washing, and had the laundrette experience in South Wigston. Everything is chained and padlocked. Were entertained by three generations of a travelling family who used the 'f' word before every second word when they spoke. The youngest was eating sherbet which he spilled all over himself once and then again as he tried to dust off what he had already tipped out. He was happy though.

Back to the boat to find Blue Adeline moored behind Romajech, locked up and uninhabited. Jan and Denis had arrived earlier than we thought. Soon afterwards, Jan returned from seeing off Denis and we caught up on the canal tales experienced by both boats so far.

Off to Tesco's (a huge one!) with Jan in the afternoon - contents of baskets seemed to be mainly alcohol related. Strangely... Does Pete's imminent arrival have anything to do with this?

We ate in the Navigation again in the evening, Pete arrived but only wanted pud. Not as impressed this time, food average and stodgy and waitress ( not yesterday's) rather surly.  Post prawn dial brandy sent us off to the land of Nod very happy!

The Navigation, Kilby Bridge

Blue Adeline started off early morning from Wystowe to do the 7 locks to Kilby Bridge, where Denis was to leave for work and Pete to rejoin.  It was quiet and almost all the locks were with us, so we were in good time for a drink at the Navigation before Denis's taxi arrived.  The driver turned out to be friendly and informative, active in the muslim and interfaith communities in Leicester and a guide to the city - we're looking forward to returning for a tour with him.  

Tuesday - Day 22

Romajech faced the Seven Locks challenge and finally won, but it was hard work. The locks on this stretch of the Leicester bit of the Grand Union are heavy and unwieldy, leaking, refusing to open and close (both gates and paddles) and also running low on water in some of the pounds. Graffiti on the lock beams adds to the sense of impending 'civilisation'.

We hoped to take it gently but brute force turned out to be the order of the day. One of the lock gates needed both of us to move it at all. Met a couple travelling the other way and they said to ignore all the horror stories about Leicester. They had set off at 6.30am yesterday and had no trouble at all; just that Leicester was a city and it was hard work. They recommended the moorings at Kilby Bridge and said that it where they ended up after their day's boating. They also said to aim for Thurmaston to moor in after getting through Leicester.

We took their advice and we were glad to be able to fill up with water and empty the rubbish etc. at quiet moorings at Kilby Bridge alongside a country park. Rewarded ourselves with a lunch at 'The Navigation' waterside pub. Good meal with friendly and helpful waitress who told us where to go for shopping, cash machine and taxi etc. Apparently there is a Sainsbury's in Wigston. Excited! Off there in a while to reconnoitre.

We walked up to Sainsbury's in 45 minutes - it was small but fine. Got a taxi back and were impressed. Queen's Taxis 0116 2701700 - very efficient, confirmed everything with texts and also asked for feedback.

I forgot to mention in yesterday's blog that we saw a terrapin about the size of a side plate sunning itself on a tree stump on the edge of the canal. An alien creature - striped in green, brown, lemon and cream motley. Also saw a huge one in a park near Rothley a few weeks ago which was the size of a large dinner plate. Do they breed in this country?

In Blue Adeline, we set off at 9am and joined the queue of two boats waiting to go down Foxton Locks.  Since the locks are single and one-way, several boats come up and down but only in one direction at once.   After an hour, we got the go ahead from the voluntary lock-keeper, who was excellent - reassuring and informative.  

Each lock has a pound and the lock discharges water into the pound below and receives water from the pound above - the order is important.  The paddle order is therefore "red before white - and you're all right" not "white before red - you're dead!".  

Blue Adeline about to descend

Leaky top gates at Foxton

By the second staircase, we were in the swing and an hour after starting our descent were in the basin at the bottom - and shortly afterwards in the tiny and charming Bridge 61 pub nearby. Saddington Tunnel (880 yards) was a few miles further on and we decided to find a mooring for the night after that.

Beautiful scenery continued and we had the waterway to ourselves for many hours, apart from a few moored boats.  At Debdale Marina, we filled up with water and in the office met Jake and his recently acquired steampunk top hat, which he graciously modelled.  A boating couple suggested Wystowe as a good spot for the night.

The tunnel and five locks later we passed under bridge 77 and a lovely vista unfolded on the left; fields, trees and a single building of pale stone.  This is the church of Wystowe, a medieval village now abandoned.  

We moored up by some convenient pilings in view of the church and a stunning sunset.

Monday - Day 21

In Romajech, after a disappointing breakfast at Foxton Top Lock Tea Room (avoid this and use Bridge 61 at bottom locks instead), we explored the Foxton Inclined Plane and the Museum, which were fascinating. Worth wandering about and seeing.

Onwards through the meandering countryside and canal. Through the Saddington tunnel, which is filled with a variety of bats apparently but we didn't see any. Through five locks and found mooring next to railway for the night before tackling the next seven locks... Not far from Leicester now (about 11 miles).

First problem after second lock as we developed strange clanging and banging noises (Keith Moon drumming on the bottom of Romajech) - we made it through the flight of four and stopped to investigate. Found a totally entangled black nylon rope and fender wrapped round the prop. Spent happy half hour disentangling it. Such fun! Now have a free fender... Must have saved all of £4.

Looking for water tomorrow.

On Blue Adeline, an early start with bacon sandwiches at dawn (well, 9am) on the towpath in the sunshine before setting off.  The canal seems rather monotonous at first but develops an almost hypnotic quality, with many handsome bridges and lush vegetation.  As we pulled up into a reed bed to let a boat come through, one man said "If the foliage was cut back, it would be easy to pass".  Well, it's true… but the overgrowth adds to the sense of timelessness.  

Husbands Bosworth was Denis's first time helming in a tunnel, which strangely, he enjoyed.

Between bridges 46 and 48 a kingfisher flew ahead of us for several hundred yards, flitting from tree to tree and at one point diving into the water in front of the boat.  A truly magical moment.

At bridge 56, we moored and went up onto the bridge to admire the view east, showing how high the canal summit is compared to surrounding countryside.  

Arriving at Turnover Bridge before Foxton Locks we moored up for the night to recce the locks.  The name is not, as you might think, a comment on an early boating mishap but the point where the children  in charge of the barge-horses would lead their charges over the bridge to change sides for the towpath.  

At Foxton, great efforts have been made to inform and educate about this marvel of engineering which enables boats to drop 75' in two staircases of 5 locks each.  There used to be an inclined plane too, now disused.  Jan has been on an operational one in Saint-Louis-Arzviller - an amazing experience where boats and occupants are transported in what feels like a huge bathtub. 

Sunday - Day 20

Bright sunshine sent Romajech on her way to Foxton Locks through rolling green fields, hills and contented sheep,, cows and horse. Saw a fox sitting watching the world go by in a field and then, two fields later, saw a young fox carrying what looked like a rabbit which was almost the same size as he/ she was.

Arrived at Foxton Locks and booked in with the friendly and organised lock keeper. He checked we knew what we were doing and then, as we were in third place, we found it was not long before we were off!

Foxton Locks - ten locks in two 'staircases'

Not really prepared for the huge number of gongoozlers, both young and old, who accompanied us down the two staircases. We were watched with fascination as the boats descended the first staircase. One little boy and his daddy followed us quite a long way, with William (the little boy) helping close and open lock gates. He was thrilled to be part of the process.

Finally, the bottom lock was reached, and a quick reminder to Mike to turn left on to the Leicester part of the Grand Union... Romajech moored up for some well-earned lunch and refreshment. Mike managed to knock my glove into the canal just before mooring up and two kind chaps brought out a telescopic landing net and retrieved it for me, bless them. Very tasty Sunday roast at the Foxton Locks pub. Back to relax for the afternoon but moved down the canal a little way after two hire boats moored next to us and we realised they were full of drunken stag participants. Most of whom could not stand independently.

Found a more peaceful mooring and were greeted by a dear little black cat (with white front paws) who pottered about beside us. He spent a happy night practising his tap dancing moves on the top of the boat but was nowhere to be seen the next morning.

Blue Adeline spent the morning at Crick finishing chores, then set off negotiating the very sharp  and tight exit out of the marina in a 10-point turn.  Effective but hardly elegant.  

Blue Adeline at Crick Marina

The Leicester Section is very rural, passing through fields and woods and has an overgrown aspect in places with rushes, reeds and trees growing far out into the canal.  In places, we had to slow right down and nose forward, cautiously keeping alert for other boats.  

There aren't locks in this part of the route, instead the canal winds to and fro following the contour.  Nor are there villages very near to the canal - travelling here we feel far from habitation. 

It's a good job we stocked up.  We found a good mooring by a shady hedge and ate a tasty 'cut stew' for dinner from leftover chicken, chorizo and potatoes.  Recipe: soften chopped onion, garlic and sweet or ordinary potato in a pan with olive oil.  Add a can of chopped tomatoes, a can of butter beans, leftover chicken and if you have some, chopped leftover sausage or chorizo.  Add paprika if you like it, plus some stock then simmer for 20 mins or so.  Eat with bread or rice.  Recommended after a hard day's locking up or down.

Hillmorton to Braunston Tunnel - Day 16

In Romajech, we were off through medieval farmland showing ancient furrows from times when the forests were cleared for agriculture. Into a very busy Braunston, which was readying itself for the Historic Narrowboat Rally at the weekend. There were already so many boats that they were three abreast in places. Some lovely craft, but we couldn't face all the brass cleaning and tinkering with the old diesel engines. Through Braunston flight in the afternoon with another narrowboat with three young people aboard. Locks are much easier when the youngsters do most of the work.

Blue Adeline had decided to take it easier and came through later on: we agreed to catch up in a couple of days to let Jan and Denis go at their own pace. It was bright sunshine,  so we decided to go for the tunnel which was very dank, with small stalactites dangling all the way through. Only 2042 yards long and not too full of natural charm, but it did have ventilation shafts, which subsequent tunnels did not! 

Only met two oncoming boats: an odd sensation as it is difficult to judge their proximity and speed. Moored just outside the tunnel in a delightful leafy glade, having been given advice on where to eat and shop by a chatty passer-by. His advice proved good.

In Blue Adeline we moored in Braunston hoping to go to the shop and chandlery, but with the Historic Narrowboat weekend approaching there were boats of all shapes, sizes and historic importance moored up two and three abreast and it was very congested.  Decided to go through the six locks and moor above them before the tunnel, so picked our way carefully, having to wait several times to let other boats come through.  Glad conditions were good, as it's always worrying when there are so many boats around - good steering practice!

Fortunately, the locks themselves were quiet and we were by ourselves in the first two then with a 60 footer in the last four.  The lock gates are particularly heavy and it took all our effort to open a couple of them, but by the top lock we'd got into the swing.  Our companion boaters helped by being relaxed and good natured.

Tired but happy, we went for a slap-up dinner at the Admiral Nelson pub by the lock flight - hats off to the chef, excellent food in a pleasant setting.  An interesting sideshow was a classic motorbike
photoshoot.

Braunston Tunnel is 2042 yards long, with an S-bend due to a mistake when meeting in the middle! It was our first ever tunnel and we were fortunate to find a widebeam owner going through at 8am the following morning who suggested we follow him, to avoid meeting boats coming the other way.  We checked the headlight and got our 1m candle power torch (!) and waterproofs ready the night before, ready to set off.

Brinklow to Hillmorton Locks - Day 15

Quiet day on Brinklow Marina, where very little moves and not even a duck is to be seen on the water. There is a rumour that a giant being lives below the ripples, but no-one who has seen it has lived to tell the tale…  Lovely hot day for drying all the washing.  Too hot for doing much else.  The Long March with the trolley couldn't be avoided though, along a dirt track under the merciless sun.

Walked the mile and a half into the village of Brinklow and found the only pub offering food had closed its kitchen for the night. At 8.15…  Local taxi driver, Hugh, took us to nearby recommended Indian restaurant; Hugh was friendly.  The restaurant food was average and not overly cheerful. Hugh's phone no: 07999 853590, Revel Cabs. In case you might need it. Amazing how fast traffic seems when you have been pootling along at 2.5 miles per hour…

A gentle start the following morning, with dear Eric hovering in the background until we were ready to leave.  Met some lunatic boaters: the man who waited until Jane had just reached a narrow bridge and then gunned his motor and roared for the gap, forcing her to reverse for quite a long way back up the canal past moored boats.  Then the man who tried to stop, lost control, went broadside across the canal and then couldn't get backwards into the mooring spot he wanted.

First tunnel was Newbold Tunnel - a small affair of 250 yards, rather like a wide bridge. Nothing too daunting.  Lunch on the outskirts of Rugby in a pleasant park and then on to the challenge of the Hillmorton Locks: a flight of 3 with a lock- keeper on the first two who gave us his entire medical history. Bless. We suggested a visit to the pub would make him feel better.


There are no more locks now until Braunston. Moored for the night in quiet countryside. 

Saturday - Day 19

On Romajech, we set off in the morning before the threatened rain arrived and through Welford Junction. Through 1166 yards of Husbands Bosworth tunnel, which seemed almost totally straight and not too dank - but perhaps we are just getting used to tunnels. Moored up for breakfast and decided to walk into Husbands Bosworth for some supplies (booze running low...). Rain came down but we were under trees for most of the walk. Not too much traffic on the canal, unsurprisingly as it keeps on pouring every half hour or so.

Back for the day and decided not to move on due to inclement weather, but to settle in the warmth of Romajech.

Tomorrow we tackle the staircase locks of Foxton. Our first locking down since we started! Will it get faster if we go downhill?

Blue Adeline too, was sheltering from the deluge - except for a walk into Crick, returning thoroughly drenched.  Wanted to light the stove with our new chimney fitted, but couldn't face climbing on the roof to put it in position.  Evening in, with beers and the first World Cup knockout games.

Friday - Day 18

In Romajech, we had a very rainy night, overcast but fine the next morning. Blue Adeline was headed for lunch at Crick and a stopover to investigate the place, probably disguised as pedestrians this time. Romajech continued through some very narrow parts of the canal which only had room for one boat, rather like exploring the Amazonian rain forest... Natives seemed friendly.

Long stretch with no locks which was lovely. Driven off the canal by torrential downpours and the sight of very peaceful moorings amongst fields and hedges. Only birdsong to be heard, once the thunder had died away.

In Blue Adeline, we'd moored for the night above Watford Locks and in the morning came through Crick Tunnel (getting a little more confident, although not sure we'll ever exactly like the experience; fortunately we didn't meet any boats coming the other way) and arranged an overnight mooring with Dick at Crick Marina.  We were immediately impressed by the friendly and helpful welcome and the orderly neatness.  It's very good value, too, at £10 per night including electricity.  

We walked into Crick for lunch at the Red Lion - a fiver each, great homemade pies - then to shop.  

Asked about bus services to Braunston, since we wanted to visit Midland Chandlers.  A lovely couple outside the Co-op offered to drive us there - they were both just retired and as they said, "demob happy" with the freedom of it.  Once in Braunston, we bought a sturdy trolley and a new inverter, half price in the sale.  Laden, we returned by taxi as no buses run direct.  

The first rain in the whole trip that evening, with monsoon-like downpours, thunder and lightening.

An update on the inverter: Thinking was the 300W inverter would power phones, MiFi, camera charger and laptop - and it's true it will power the smaller items but for some reason NOT the 60W laptop. Also, it turned out to be a faff connecting all the leads and keeping them out of the crew's way during charging. The original setup with a replacement for the defunct Sterling is now the plan, with a 1500W Waeco model.

Thursday - Day 17

8am in Blue Adeline and the Canal and River Trust rep was on hand to give the go ahead to the widebeam to enter Braunston Tunnel.  Blue Adeline followed, keeping a good distance as advised.  As soon as we entered, we were engulfed in almost complete darkness and a dank, musty atmosphere with water dripping from above.  It was disorienting, because in the darkness we couldn't easily gauge how fast the boat was going or how straight we were.  A few hundred yards in we really knew what "light at the end of the tunnel" meant.

Dark as the Styx…

Light at the end

We made it!

After the tunnel, a gentle potter west along a mile or so of the Grand Union Canal Main Line and then a sharp left turn at Norton Junction to head north on the Leicester Section of the Grand Union Canal.  The last phase of our journey.

Romajech had a gentle start watching boats emerge into daylight from the tunnel while supping tea on the stern. First a wIdebeam, checked through by CRT staff on walkie-talkies, followed by Blue Adeline. We all waved. Off through Norton Junction and headed for Watford staircase locks and the Crick tunnel. Went past a moored Blue Adeline just past Watford Gap motorway services. Jan and Denis were off to infiltrate the shops posing as motorists. They succeeded in their mission.

Romajech settled down to queue for an hour and a half for the Watford locks, which were organised by lock-keepers. The first was very helpful and organised but he went off duty and we were left with Mr Rush-Flap, who let a lock gate re-open after not closing it properly and opened a paddle when he should not have done. Romajech almost surfed backwards into the lock behind on a bow-wave. He also almost took the wheel off our bike when he did not watch what he was doing when he closed the lock gate too soon.

Very fraught, but finally managed the whole staircase and the final separate top lock. Stopped to empty rubbish etc. and saw a queue of six historic narrowboats and butties waiting to descend the staircase.

Set off feeling in need of some restoration ourselves.

Decided that things could not get any worse so we headed for the Crick tunnel, which was very dank, fume-filled and dripping, with no ventilation shafts. Not a pleasing 1528 yards of experience. Moored at Crick for a well-earned bite to eat and a couple of beverages at 'The Moorings': a licensed cafe with a cheerful and friendly waitress.  Slept well a little further up the canal.

The Moorings cafe at Crick - cheerful staff, good food

On Blue Adeline we also had problems at Watford Locks.  The lock-keeper seemed impatient and disorganised - rushing us through and giving contradictory instructions.  At one point, he raised a paddle on the staircase so fast that Jan struggled to control the boat.  What's the hurry?  This isn't technology built for express transit!   

A Dutch tourist watching, charmed but obviously slightly bemused as we went through, said "All the locks in Holland are automated".

Stretton Stop to Brinklow - Day 13 & 14

Pete saw a heron fishing at 4.30am - it dived completely under water to the middle of the canal before reappearing with a fish.  It then took this to the bank, threw it in the air to get it into the right angle then swallowed.  The next fish was left on the bank, either not to the heron's taste or too big to eat.  Crows came, devouring the heron's leftovers along its route.

A tattooed boater went by with his missus, playing music via a speaker on the roof.  No, not Iron Maiden at zillions of decibels but.. Radio 2.  Pete: "Bit loud, isn't it?".  Boater: "Wot's it got to do with you, twat!".  Well bad.

Set off for Brinklow Marina, along a pretty stretch of canal with mature trees arching overhead.

The marina itself is in a lovely setting, but is rather bare with almost no facilities.  Eric arrived to show us the visitor moorings and helpfully offered a lift to the local Tesco for supplies.

Very, very hot, so we sat in the shade of rusty-red containers placed conveniently beside the mooring.

Said goodbye to Pete, whose wicked sense of humour has made us all laugh til it hurts. Then an early night, as all very tired.

To Hawkesbury Junction - Day 12

A lazy start. Blue Adeline now has her name emblazoned on her starboard side (it's a poor show, a boat with no name).  A gentle trip with sights along the way, like the boatyard with piles of cars, piles of boats on top of the cars and mannikins including a climbing frame complete with mannikin children.  Spooky…

At Hawkesbury Junction near Coventry, the Oxford Canal turns off to the left beginning with a winding hole, a tight turn and a lock all within a short space.  Went to the Greyhound pub for a canal side lunch with a view of some gorgeous steam launches, gleaming from bow to stern in the sunshine.

Met Denis and set off to our evening mooring at Stretton Stop, right by the train track but fortunately, no trains ran at night.  Either that, or we slept through as they passed.

The Ashby Canal - Day 10 and 11

Off at 10ish into the 22 mile long Ashby Canal - a worthwhile detour, we'd been told.  It's pretty and has handsome stone bridges.  Rather shallow in places, so we checked depth with the boathook.

Trinity Marina is near bridge 17 and has diesel, Elsan, water and a small chandlery.

Jan to boater near the marina: "Your bow's floating out and we wondered if you're OK".  Boater to Jan: "She's doing the laundry, she'll only be a few minutes".  Umm..

Found a quiet mooring for the evening just after bridge 27 - very rural and a comical collection of ducks  kept us amused.  Walked into Dadlington for a meal at the Dog and Hedgehog and found a rude barman so thought better of it.  Asking Jane to "Speak up, speak up" then "Speak louder, I can't hear you" followed by "There, that's better" in patronising tones isn't the way to our hearts.  The Mango Tree at Stoke Golding kindly offered to deliver to the boats, so we had a take away - delicious.

Next day, went as far as the Sutton Wharf cafe at bridge 34 and winded then moored for coffee and cakes (a regular theme, we know, but it's amazing how boating burns the calories).  A friendly cafe in an attractive setting.  Pete had the most enormous bread and butter pudding we'd ever seen.

If you're on the Ashby, look out for the farm shop at bridge 23. It has wonderful cold pies, sausages and eggs (the latter from rescue hens).  We bought pork steaks too and made a barbecue.  Pete got some pork dripping to make fried bread for breakfast.  Off to bed on Midsummer's Eve.

Water spirits on the Ashby

Atherstone to Marston Junction - Day 9

Ducklings at Atherstone

A lazy morning moored above Atherstone locks, then walked the few minutes into the town for coffee, cakes and shopping.  There's a large Co-op and an excellent hardware shop.  The Larder is thoroughly recommended - a quirky and friendly 1940s themed cafe filled with memorabilia with delightful waitresses dressed in period.  Mike played piano and got a round of applause from customers and staff.

Off at 3pm-ish and through Nuneaton towards the start of the Ashby Canal, mooring for the night near Marston Junction.

Alvecote to Atherstone - Day 8

A day of water voles, surreal moments and high drama

With a tinge of sadness on leaving this strange and lovely place, we set off from Alvecote Marina.  Almost immediately we saw, set back to the right of the canal, the ruins of the Priory which we'd looked for for two days.  Progressed gently along the leafy, peaceful canal until Romajech rounded a corner to find Blue Adeline mooring up - Jan wanted to look at the stainless steel chimney pots for sale on the butty Molly.  The Little Chimney Company is a delight, with Kym, Tracey and their three children living and working afloat.  After buying a chimney for each boat and finding out how to care for it (soap and water then stainless steel cleaner to remove the grime, rockwool inside the lower rim to stop condensation running onto the roof) we got news of a temporary lock closure at Atherstone.

Mike relegates his old chimney

Travelled through quiet fields, heard skylarks singing, past some very messy boatyards and some beautiful gardens.  The Canal and River Trust was mending a paddle on the second of the eleven locks of the Atherstone flight and rounding the corner before the first lock, we saw the queue; about ten narrowboats.  Fortunately, 15 minutes after we arrived, they started to move.  Two CRT volunteers were helping but by the time we reached them, they'd gone for lunch.

The boater behind was a cheery sort and said that in his opinion, they'd not gone for lunch they'd gone home and didn't know what they were doing, anyway.  The Coventry Canal, he said, is very shallow and slow.  Jane said, but it's nonetheless lovely and peaceful.  "It's just a canal", he replied, "the Leeds and Liverpool is deeper and faster".  We wondered why he'd been narrowboating for so many years, if speed was of such essence.

Nearing the head of the queue, helping other boaters lock up and down, Mr Cheery turned up and instructed Jane on the correct method of opening a lock gate (thank you!) then gave chapter and verse on the technicalities of the mechanism.  We met many friendly and chatty people, both boaters and passers-by as we moved up through the locks.  Mr Cheery turned up again, to tell us there were 4 more locks to do in this section of the flight (actually there were 5) and to complain to Mike about how slow we were.  His Perkins diesel, he said, had a very fast tick over speed and it was hard for him to hold back.  However, he had no wish to pass us.  Pete muttered if he was such a know-it-all he'd know how to get out of a lock if Pete threw him in.

At 5.30pm tired after 6 locks, we decided to press on and complete the flight - only 5 more to go. At this point, Mr Chatty appeared waving his arms about, laughing and shouting.  He accompanied us for the next hour, talking constantly and waving a piece of paper with boats' names he'd collected written on it. The list included one called 'Quizzical Look'.

There was a Marie Celeste moment when a boat broke free from its mooring and drifted broadside across the canal.  Pete thought the owner might have fallen in, as the engine was running and the centre line trailing in the water, so jumped on board to bring the boat to shore.  All ended well, with boat and owner restored to one another.

Lock at Atherstone

Further on, a boat drifted under some overhanging trees and the helmsman emerged, brushing his face and head shouting "I've been green-flied!".

We found a quiet mooring above the last lock, after passing some derelict warehouses and sat with a restorative drink.  A movement on the bank opposite and a small brown animal appeared, sitting and wringing his front paws.  He then swam through overgrown grasses and rushes into the entrance to his burrow.  We all hoped it was a water vole ("swims rather like a cork, on the surface") rather than a rat ("swims with head above water").

Dinner was at The Red Lion and was delicious, with a very sweet and friendly waitress.  Then to bed, absolutely exhausted and very full.  NO MORE LOCKS FOR TWO PAGES OF THE CANAL MAP!

Fazeley to Alvecote - Day 6 and 7

A day of characters and then a day off.

The quiet, unassuming lady locking down in the double locks at Tamworth, who noted the rather fast and unyielding pace of some motor cruisers.  She said "It's ever so satisfying when I look back and they're caught in the brambles on the other side".

A youngish lad, suntanned and smiley and with a bicycle laden with camping gear.  He rides along the waterways carrying his own windlass so he can help out with locks, simply because he loves the world of the canals.

Malcolm of Alvecote Marina, who when asked if we could have a mooring for the night at the marina, replied "What's wrong with the towpath?".  We said we'd like an electric hook up to run washing machines and he offered us a mooring right by the pub where we'd have to 'breast up', a manoeuvre we've never attempted before.  "Just put them side by side, T-bar to T-bar", he advised.  Hmm…  Anyway, we managed it without damaging anything and spent an enjoyable evening in the pub and then a day off pottering and catching up with chores.

Moored at Alvecote Marina

Mike on Draco (the pale blue boat in the photo), also owns the 121-year old 71' wrought iron hulled Success. The bottom (the boat's, not Mike's) was originally elm now replaced with steel. The new rudder and tiller had cost £2000.  Does this make the boat a nautical equivalent of Trigger's broom, which he'd had for 25 years, with 11 new shanks and 12 new heads?

Mike of Draco had been an electrical engineer in a former life and now runs a canal ware shop and has several rescued animals and birds on board including German Shepherds and cockatiels.

Alvecote has several historic boats and the boatyard opposite was rebuilding a wooden hulled
narrowboat on hardstanding with its enormous timbers visible, beautifully joined and ready for caulking.  There were also two boats operated by Narrow Boat Trust volunteers, which carry coal to London, selling mainly to houses backing onto the canals.

Narrow Boat Trust coal carriers

Swallows nesting under the eaves

A pub local

Blue Adeline's 1500W inverter packed in and we decided we don't need a large one after all, especially since they cost £900+.  The alternative we've come up with is to use the three 12v sockets for charging phones, MiFi dongle and (via a 300w inverter from Maplin, cost £39.99) the laptop and camera battery.  The 12v Cello television with DM Log Periodic aerial is excellent (so far).  We can do without a microwave and we'll hook up at a marina once a week or so when the laundry needs attention. Simples!

Fradley to Fazeley - Day 5

Coventry Canal is a contour canal with no locks for long stretches and is, consequently, very sinuous and winding.  It's also beautiful, peaceful (mostly) and very rural.

We're seen several empty rabbit hutches in gardens - is this a sign of rabbit upsizing?  Brings to mind a friend who was a vicar's wife whose house rabbit ate the vicar's cassock.  The insurance company queried the claim in some depth.

nb Blue Adeline test-boated today, carefully mapping the shallows where she promptly ran aground twice and nobly prevented nb Romajech doing the same.

A few ghastly narrowboat helmsmen, mostly very gung-ho, not in control and going too fast. Several very near misses, but none of them seemed to notice!

To compensate, there were considerate boaters who waited for our two boats to get through bridges or narrow spaces beside moored boats.

Mid morning break saw our guerrilla tea partying enter a new phase, surrounded by fun runners. Several asked for a lift.  The most noticeable was a superhero in a morph suit, who announced that he had come to rescue us.  There was also a disconsolate youth dressed in a short red tutu and purple wings, who looked as if he wanted to be somewhere else.

We moored just past Fazeley Junction, hoping our choice of spot would be calm and peaceful.

Alrewas to Fradley - Day 4

Woken by sunshine - lovely.  Swabbing decks (well, roof and gunwales) to get to the parts that normally can't be reached.

Alrewas was busy with boats everywhere, so some neat & tricky steering required and some hanging onto moored boats but all ended well.  More toning of muscles, as we wrestled with narrower but nonetheless heavy and stiff lock gates and paddles.

Fradley Junction for lunch al fresco and much chat among gongoozlers and boaters.  After the third lock, we turned sharp left into the Coventry Canal and a swing bridge, which was surprisingly light to turn.

Tiny ducklings everywhere we go

Mike and Jane on nb Romajech

Pete demonstrating swing action

No locks on the Coventry for about 12 miles, so we progressed in a stately manner, finding a mooring at about 7pm.  A solitary jogger approached our guerrilla drinking table, which was moved from the towpath with now practised alacrity.  He returned, to gasp that he'd be back again on Monday if we could wait, for a glass of beer.  

All fairly tired, we retired while it was still light.  Climbing the gangplank - first use on this trip due to a bendy bankside - ended the day's excitement.